Lighting guides
Technical Lighting 101
The terms on a lighting datasheet, explained in plain English.
Colour temperature, lumens, IP ratings, drivers and dimming types decide whether a light works where you put it. This page explains each one, grouped by topic, so you can look up the term you need.
New to planning lighting? Start with Lighting Design 101, then come back here for the detail.
Written by the Enlightened Living technical team.
Topic 1
Light output and quality
Six numbers describe what a light gives you: how warm, how bright, how true and how spread out.
Colour temperature (CCT)
Colour temperature describes how warm or cool white light looks, measured in kelvin (K). Lower numbers are warmer.
- 2700K–3000K: warm white, with a yellow tint
- 3500K–4500K: neutral white
- 5000K–6500K: cool white, close to midday daylight
We recommend 2700K–3000K for homes, 3500K–4000K for offices and commercial spaces, and 5000K and above only for workshops and detailed task areas. Lighting Design 101 covers which to use in each room.
Lumens (lm)
Lumens measure how much light a fitting gives out. More lumens means more light.
| Lumens | Roughly equal to | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| 450–500 lm | 40W incandescent | Soft ambient light |
| 800 lm | 60W incandescent | General room light |
| 1,100 lm | 75W incandescent | Brighter task light |
| 1,600 lm and above | 100W incandescent | Large or very bright spaces |
Wattage (W)
Wattage is how much power a light uses, not how bright it is. With LEDs the two no longer line up: an LED uses a fraction of the power of an incandescent bulb for the same light. Compare lumens when you compare brightness.
Colour rendering (CRI)
CRI measures how true colours look under a light, on a scale to 100. Daylight and incandescent bulbs score 100.
- CRI 90 and above: colours look accurate. Choose this for vanities, kitchens and artwork.
- CRI 80–89: fine for general use.
- Below 80: colours can look washed out or wrong.
Beam angle
Beam angle is how wide a directional light spreads, in degrees. It is measured where the light falls to half its brightest.
- 10°–25°: a tight spot for highlighting art or a feature
- 25°–40°: a medium beam for benches and tables
- 60° and wider: a broad flood for general light
Beam angle matters most for downlights, track spots and other directional fittings. It rarely matters for decorative pendants and lamps.
Glare
Glare is the discomfort you feel when a bright source or a harsh contrast is in your line of sight. Well-designed fittings control it in three main ways:
- frosted or diffusing lenses that soften the light
- baffles, louvres or shields that hide the source
- setting the LED deep in the housing, out of normal view
These details are often what separates an architectural fitting from a cheaper one.
Topic 2
IP ratings
An IP rating tells you how well a fitting keeps out dust and water. It decides where a light can safely go.
What does an IP rating mean?
IP stands for Ingress Protection, an international standard (IEC 60529). It is written as IP and two digits, such as IP44 or IP65.
- First digit (0–6): protection against solids. 5 is dust protected; 6 is dust tight.
- Second digit (0–9): protection against water. 4 is splashes from any direction; 5 is low-pressure jets; 7 is immersion up to 1 m for 30 minutes.
- An X means that part wasn’t tested. IPX4 is rated for water but not dust.
Which IP rating do I need?
A higher rating is always fine in a lower-risk spot.
| Rating | Protects against | Typical use |
|---|---|---|
| IP20 | Fingers and large objects; no water | Dry indoor rooms: living, bedrooms, offices |
| IP44 / IPX4 | Splashing water from any direction | Bathrooms, including inside the shower in homes; sheltered outdoor spots |
| IP54 | Limited dust, plus splashing water | Near showers and baths; covered outdoor areas |
| IP65 | Fully dust tight, plus low-pressure water jets | Inside showers; exposed outdoor walls and gardens |
| IP67 | Fully dust tight, plus temporary immersion | Inside the bath or shower base (with a 12V supply); in-ground lights |
Bathrooms have their own rules. Australian wiring rules split bathrooms into zones by distance from water. Inside a home shower you generally need at least IPX4; inside the bath or shower base, IPX7 and extra-low voltage. Read Bathroom Lighting in Australia: IP Ratings and Wet Zones Explained, and check your plan with your electrician.
Topic 3
Lamps and integrated LED
A fitting either takes a replaceable lamp (a bulb or globe) or has the LED built in. Each suits different jobs.
| Replaceable lamp | Integrated LED | |
|---|---|---|
| Light source | A bulb you can swap | Built into the fitting |
| Change brightness or colour later | Yes, change the lamp | No, fixed at purchase |
| Typical life | Replace the lamp when it fails | Typically rated 50,000+ hours: 10–20 years at 4–8 hours a day |
| Shape of the fitting | Sized around a lamp socket | Slimmer, smaller, more unusual forms |
| Upfront cost | Often lower | Often higher |
| Best for | Decorative fittings, 24-hour use, tighter budgets | Hard-to-reach fittings, minimal designs, efficiency |
Under Australia’s Greenhouse and Energy Minimum Standards (GEMS), every lamp we supply is LED.
Do I need a lamp?
Check the product page. Under Specifications and downloads, “Lamp required – Yes” means the fitting needs one, and “Lamp type” tells you which.
How do I choose a lamp?
- Base. It must match the fitting, for example E27, GU10 or MR16. It’s listed under “Lamp type” on the product page.
- Shape and size. Check the maximum lamp size if the fitting is enclosed. We list recommended lamps at the bottom of each product page.
- Performance. Lumens, colour temperature, CRI and whether it dims.
- Look. If the lamp is visible, choose the style: clear, frosted, filament or a larger globe. If it’s hidden, performance matters more.
Shop lamps, or ask us to pick the right one for your fitting.
Topic 4
LED drivers
A driver converts mains power (230V AC) into the low-voltage DC an LED needs. Many fittings have one built in; some need one fitted separately.
Do I need a driver?
Check the product page. Under Specifications and downloads, “Driver required – Yes” means the fitting needs a separate driver, and “Driver type” says which kind. Recessed downlights, compact wall lights and modular systems are the usual cases.
Constant current or constant voltage?
The fitting decides which you need: use the type listed under “Driver type”.
| Constant current (CC) | Constant voltage (CV) | |
|---|---|---|
| Holds steady | The current, e.g. 350 mA, 500 mA, 700 mA | The voltage, usually 12V or 24V DC |
| Typical use | Downlights, spotlights, high-power LEDs | LED strip, modules, under-cabinet and signage |
| Several fittings on one driver | Wire them in series | Wire them in parallel |
| Watch for | Minimum and maximum fittings per driver | Total load, cable size and voltage drop |
Use the driver type the maker specifies. The wrong type can cause flicker, shorten the LED’s life and void the warranty. Never put constant-current fittings in parallel or constant-voltage fittings in series.
Choosing the right driver
- Type. CC or CV, from “Driver type” on the product page.
- Wattage. Enough for every fitting on it. We list recommended drivers at the bottom of each product page.
- Dimming. As standard we offer non-dimmable, phase-dimmable and DALI drivers. Other options are often available for projects.
Shop drivers and electrical components, or send us your fitting list and we’ll match the drivers.
Topic 5
Dimming
Not every light dims, and those that do use different systems. The fitting, the driver and the dimmer all have to speak the same one.
| System | How it’s controlled | Extra control wiring | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Phase (leading or trailing edge) | Standard wall dimmer on the mains | None | Most homes; renovations and retrofits |
| 1–10V | Low-voltage analogue signal | 2 extra wires | Commercial and high-end projects |
| 0–10V | Low-voltage analogue signal | 2 extra wires | Commercial and high-end projects |
| DALI | Digital, two-way, each light addressable | 2 extra wires (a bus) | Offices, galleries, smart buildings |
| Casambi | App over Bluetooth mesh | None | Smart control without new wiring |
Analogue or digital dimming?
Analogue dimming (phase, 1–10V, 0–10V) is controlled by the dimmer hardware alone. Digital dimming (DALI, Casambi) adds software, which brings scenes, groups and more precise control.
Phase dimming
Phase dimming is the most common system in Australia because it needs no extra wiring. Leading edge was designed for incandescent and halogen; trailing edge is quieter and smoother, and better for most LEDs. Most modern dimmers handle both. Older dimmers can flicker with LEDs, so check compatibility when upgrading.
1–10V and 0–10V dimming
Both send a low-voltage signal on two extra wires from the dimmer to the driver. They’re reliable, smooth and cheaper than DALI. 0–10V can dim right to off; 1–10V needs a separate on/off switch. Talk to your electrician early, because the extra wires have to be planned in.
DALI
DALI (Digital Addressable Lighting Interface) is an open digital standard, so parts from different makers work together. Each light can be controlled on its own or in groups. It needs a dedicated pair of control wires, which makes it better suited to new builds than retrofits.
Casambi
Casambi is wireless, app-controlled dimming over a Bluetooth mesh. It handles dimming, scenes, schedules and groups without control wiring. Several of our ranges offer Casambi as a standard option.
Dimming LED lamps
Most LED lamps we sell are phase-dimmable; non-dimmable ones are marked. To use them on a DALI system, add a phase-to-DALI converter.
Other smart systems
Philips Hue, Zigbee, Lutron and others are growing in Australia. If you use one and can’t see a compatible option, ask us: we work directly with our makers and can often supply one.
Not sure which driver, lamp or dimmer you need?
Send us the product codes and how you want to control them. Our technical team will check compatibility and tell you exactly what to order.
Architects, designers and electricians: open a trade account for trade pricing and specification support, or request a quote. Planning a track or downlight layout? Use our configurators.
Keep reading in the Lighting Journal
Specification notes, room guides and brand stories from our team.
